TO those who are inclined to yield to the temptation of visiting some extra-Alpine climbing ground, and are turning their attention to Central Norway, this note may be of interest. It is based upon experience acquired during a visit to that district in August, 1925.
The highest mountain group in Central Norway is the Jotunheim, any climbing-centre of which may be approached from Bergen by more or less circuitous routes. The Central Jotunheim can be reached within 24 hours from Oslo. If one takes the night train to Otta one should be able to motor next morning to Lom and Röisheim, and walk during the evening to the Spiterstul Hut in the Visdal at the foot of the Galdhöpigg, the highest mountain of Norway, 8,077 feet. But it is the Western Jotunheim, or rather the group known as the Horunger, which offers the most attractive climbing. Its centre is Turtagrö which is only about 10 m. from the landing station on the Lyster or Sogne-Fjord called Skjolden, accessible by local steamer services from Bergen.
The Jotunheim is well supplied with huts of the chalet-hotel variety which are generally comfortable, and in August of last year were not too crowded. It must be admitted that (except in the Horunger) really good climbing needs to be looked for as many of the peaks are rounded and dull, Incidentally the nomenclature is some guide: thus one may expect a Tind, Pigg or Horn to be steeper than a Hö. But good climbs can be found e.g. the N.W. face of the Galdhöpigg, The N.E. face and ridge of the Styggehö, the Knuthulstind from Knutshullet, etc.
There are numerous glaciers in the Jotunheim but compared with those of the Alps they are generally uninteresting. Even the Jostedalsbre, the largest glacier in Europe, does not offer many allurements though it yields some fair ice expeditions. It can be approached from various stations on the Sogne-or Lysterfjord.
Besides the Jotunheim there are other districts and peaks in Central Norway which will interest the climber: for instance the well-known Romsdalshorn above Aandalsnes. Further north is the Sunnmöre group as to which information will be found in E. C. Oppenheim’s New Climbs in Norway. On the subject of bibliography it may be mentioned that there is an excellent tourist guide to Norway which gives most detailed information as to all the huts and the routes over the principal passes, viz., Nils Onsager’s Til Fots. Kr 13,50. The most useful book in English is Norway: The Northern Playground, by W. C. Slingsby.
The new Survey maps have not yet been published as to the whole of Jotunheim but two useful sheets are available, viz., Topografisk Kart over Norge, Blad 30 B., Bygdin, and 30 D., Galdhöppigen. Kr. 1,40. The scale of the maps is 1: 100,000, they are clearly printed and are easy to read. Another good map of Jotunheim, though on a smaller scale, is that of Finn Kross. Kr. 3,50. In districts not covered by these maps one has to rely on the old Amtskart (Fylkeskart) scale 1: 200,000. Kr. 2. Useful general maps, scale 1: 400,000 can be obtained from Norway House, Trafalgar Square.
A holiday in Norway will not be a cheap one. The tariffs of hotels in Jotunheim last summer were about the same as those prevailing for similar accommodation in Switzerland. Since that time Norwegian Kroner have improved and English climbers will probably find Norway a little more expensive than Switzerland. English is not spoken at many of the chalet-hotels, but there is a phrase-book at the end of Baedeker’s Norway and Sweden which will save the climber from starvation, and if properly used may even provide him with luxuries! L. A. E.
AS most people know, this winter has given plenty of opportunity for ski-ing in England and Scotland. In many parts of the North ski-ing can be quite good, and a few notes on possibilities may be useful to those who are the proud possessors of a pair of skis, and who live within easy reach of the hills. Cambridge parties skied at Dalwhinnie in the Highlands in January last year and again at Christmas. Teesdale and Swaledale and the Ogwen Valley have been tried, and also the main street of Malvern, and the villa-lined avenues of Golders Green.
It was last November that we skied in Teesdale. Langdon Beck Hotel is over twelve hundred feet up, and apart from the snowy conditions the wide, open dale, dotted with whitewashed farms, has a great attraction.
The valley slopes, however, are too broken up by walls for long runs, but the very high plateau-like moors ensure plenty of snow and severe frost. "Tailing" behind a car went very well, and we also had the rare experience of ski-ing across the Tees on the ice. In passing it may be suggested that the most enjoyable way to attack Crossfell is on ski; as little as two inches of snow is enough to make all the difference between a toilsome moorland walk and a pleasant run, especially in a good breeze.
Those who want steep hills, however, will find very few in Teesdale; the lower parts of Swaledale are better, and at least one very good run has been found – most limestone districts should provide similar short steep runs. Down in the valleys good snow is only found in severe weather, and in almost any of the dales in Yorkshire or Derbyshire there are far too many walls. Further to the West in the Lakes or North Wales snow seems to be unreliable unless one climbs high; in Teesdale and Weardale a car can be taken above two thousand feet at several points, higher than anywhere else in England. The Cheviots, too, are smooth and steep, but rather hard to reach: a summer acquaintance with them, however, suggests that they again might be more attractive on ski than on foot.
Christmas week-end in the Central Highlands proved a success, despite a thaw on the 28th. In the previous January conditions for a few days were very good indeed, with over a foot of snow. Dalwhinnie on the main Highland line is easily reached, and is said to be the best centre in Scotland; the slopes are very open and bare, but a depth of at least six inches of snow is desirable. The natives, however, regard this as a minor fall. The good run west of the village gives about three-quarters of a mile, with a fall of sixteen hundred feet: this may be regarded as fairly typical.
Judging by the figures for Braemar snow lies at twelve hundred feet for from twenty to seventy days a year (for example, twenty-seven days in December last). The snowfall is slightly heavier at Dalwhinnie, and in addition Braemar is harder to reach from the South.
Lastly, those who have once been charmed by Scotland – whether by the glories of Skye and the sea-lochs in summer, or Glen Nevis at Easter – will not be disappointed in the Eastern hills when they have seen them in midwinter; in a cold season the short winter days could not be better spent.
Further south ski-ing is, of course, occasionally possible, but more as a joke than anything else; the run from Mill Hill to Hampstead was done in January, and one man has even skied to work in Durham; Derbyshire, too, has been tried. In a normal winter, however, the high northern Pennines will give a good deal of cross-country work with easy slopes, and the Eastern Highlands will provide that and good slopes as well. As a new weapon for the armoury of the inveterate bog-trotter, ski may be heartily recommended; especially to those who live within reach of the hills and can therefore seize the opportunity afforded by a snowfall. G. M.
GEOFFREY WINTHROP YOUNG has spoken of chalk as the missing link between rock and snow, and Cambridge mountaineers need go no further than Cherryhinton to find chalk pits admirably suited to the exercise of their art. Excellent practice in the use of the feet is presented by the short courses that abound, since hardly any of the handholds can be pulled upon. An axe of some sort is essential, not only for cutting steps, but also for clearing away the looser chalk on the surface. The hands have to rely almost entirely on push supports, and progress upwards or downwards must be made by the feet. Either rubbers or plain leather shoes may be used, but rubbers are much better: if nails possess any advantage, it is quite outweighed by their tendency to become clogged. It is surprising what a grip rubbers give on even wet or frozen chalk.
The best climbs are found in the three Old Cherryhinton pits, which may be identified by the two disused kilns in the most Easterly quarry, and incidentally the kilns themselves provide quite amusing climbs. The only chalk climb in the east quarry is given by an obvious couloir. In the central quarry there are numerous climbs, including an excellent chimney; while in the west quarry a Girdle Traverse, and two long chimneys, as yet unattempted. More minute details would be superfluous, as the climbs have a habit of disappearing overnight, and in any case climbers will probably prefer to make their own routes. Lastly, those who wish to practice absieling will find an ideal spot, a sixty foot wall in the east quarry, with a convenient tree at the top. I. M. W.