|
|
We are currently planning to take the Normal Route up the mountain. This starts at Puenta Del Inca, goes through Base Camp at Plaza De Mulas, round to the North of the mountain, and approaches the summit on the North West ridge. |
|
After speaking to several other people about the Normal Route - we may not be taking this route now, but an alternative approach from the East. GPS Waypoints of the Normal Route can be found here |
|
The route up to the mountain starts from Puenta Del Inca on the main road from Mendoza. From here, there is a long trail through the Horcones Valley, across the Horcones River to base camp. Mules will carry our supplies to Plaza de Mulas (4200m). |
|
Departure is then made, after acclimatisation, from Plaza De Mulas. The well demarcated trail should be followed, first to the Northeast and then to the East. The path zigzags along a slope full of small stones. Suddenly the inclination decreases at 5150m. This place is aptly named Cambio de Pendiente (change of Slope) . There are several platforms and stones clusters, making the place useful for camping. |
 |
The area, commonly called Camp Canada, is very exposed to winds, but considering the altitude and distance from Plaza de Mulas, usually the first camp is placed here at Canada, especially when there is snow to generate water.
|
From Cambio de Pendiente, the Northeast direction should be followed reaching 5350 m. This area is plenty of big rocks, favouring the installation of tents. The landscape is very beautiful and mysterious, being named Nido de Condores ( Condorīs nest). It is located in the cool between the Aconcagua and Manso Mount. There is snow accumulation and ice in the whole area. |
The trail continues from Nido de Condores to the Southeast, zigzagging on the Northwest Ridge.
At 5800 m is a group of refuges, Plantamura, Libertad and Berlin. It is an attractive place with a magnificent panoramic view. Only the first two refuges are habitable. The third lacks the roof and prtions of its structure. The refuges should be used as a common dinning room and for emergency bivouacs.
|
In the middle of the climbing season, these refuges should only be used as a reference point as the number of people in a group usually exceeds the capacity of these modest and small constructions. This plocation is, however, often used for camping but the strong winds, producing a notorious Vento Blanco effect, can transform the stay in a very unpleasant experience. |
|
|
The trail continues from this area of refuges, along the Northwest Ridge, reaching the Independecia refuge at 6250m, just below the Del Viento Col. The Del Viento Col is a short walking distance to the Southwest from the Independencia refuge. |
|
There is then a traverse that leads to the begining of the Canaleta (Canal), the last stage, which is easily seen as one approaches it. On the way to the Canaleta, the path goes to the right, crossing through the Schillerīs ice layer of about 50 to 100m width sloping at about 30-35 degrees. The surface coukd be icy, needing the use of crampons. |
|
|
The Canaleta is the last stage of the climb, and normally has big unstable stones, although if it is snow covered then crampons can be used for an easier climb. The height deference between the bottom and the top of it is about 400m. At its end and slightly to the left is the principal summit (Northern Summit) at 6959m |