I eventually caught the ice climbing bug on Creag Meagaidh, following a memorable day on the easy slopes of Raeburn's Gully and two weeks later I was back with Amos, Kat, Tom and Jon. This time the conditions rendered the easier gullies out of bounds and casual murmurings about Tower Ridge suddenly seemed very real. A couple of hours kip later, Amos and myself found ourselves hiking off from Fort William golf-club, to emerge above the wood (and the mist) just as it grew light. The walk-in gave me time to admire the colossal north face of Ben Nevis close up, in the flesh for the first time. Added to the beauty of the complete winter panorama behind us it would have been easy to forget the savage reputation of the mountain.
We were eager to get onto the ridge as soon as possible, in the knowledge that the weather was to deteriorate later in the day, and by 9.30 am we were gearing up in the gap behind Douglas Boulder. The initially awkward moves onto the ridge proper were a reminder that snow conditions weren't ideal and finding secure ice axe placements was literally going to be a case of hit and miss!
Almost immediately I became aware of the exposure that could be felt moving precariously along knife edge parts of the ridge. Rather than take any chances, we pitched our way towards the first steep part and, before commencing this next upward pitch, we foolishly allowed a "faster" pair behind us to overtake. In some respects I was glad that they weren't actually moving any faster - I was worried that by not wishing to lead I was holding us back - but as the waits at the stances became colder neither of us would have minded if they had vanished off upwards.
By now the wind was picking up. The occasional shouts from adjacent ridges and buttresses were lost and, as cloud swirled down to engulf the mountain, I could only sometimes catch a glimpse of the snow slopes far below, and on either side of the ridge. With the other party always just out of my sight it felt like we were alone on the mountain and, at times, as our rope snaked upwards and out of sight I sometimes wondered if even Amos was still on the other end (although a reassuring series of tugs was always the reply).
As our upward progress continued, with the weather adding that extra bit of interest to proceedings, I could understand how easy it would be to have a real epic on a winter route. We moved through patches of easy snow and I cursed my poor, "frantic scrabbling" technique on the odd awkward, and pretty scary rock step (which I suspect I could have avoided to one side!). I was, incidentally, greatly encouraged last week to observe Graeme Ettle adopting a similar technique whilst being filmed for "The Edge" - fair enough, it wasn't on a grade III!
By the time we reached the infamous Eastern Traverse, we had caught right up with the other group again. This part of the route had never intimidated me, despite its reputation for exceptional exposure - with a good set of front points and good balance it was surely a case of keeping your nerve. Besides I had other things on my mind as I was now becoming very cold and hungry.
One by one, we left the stance and, after what seemed like an eternity of lonely shivering, I felt Amos tug the rope and I eagerly stepped over the crest of the ridge and onto the traverse. I suddenly became aware of the unstable nature of the snow and, being fourth across, it felt like the whole thing was going to give way if I so much as paused - at this point I quickly revised my perception of the traverse as it both frightened and exhilarated me at the same time! Retrieving the only piece of protection (a sling around a spike) without stopping, I paddled my way to terra firma (.html interesting rock shelf!) and to the safety of the belay. I "described" to Amos my feelings about the last pitch using a fairly vivid vocabulary and began shivering again, but this time I'm not entirely sure why!
Another tricky pitch led directly to the top of the Great Tower and Amos exclaimed en route that, "It's quite hard but you'll be able to do it Dave, OK?". "Yeah, no problem" I replied in genuine agreement, while inside I curiously pondered the fact that we were well screwed if I couldn't! As it was, I got a solid axe placement when it mattered (a first!) and scrambled fairly easily up through the steep rock. At the top of the Great Tower we were now at the mercy of the wind again with the last real problem on the ridge, Tower Gap, just ahead. Having shuffled our way along the knife edge and climbed down into the gap it felt like the gale roaring up Glover's Chimney could only help push us up onto the upper part of the ridge! A short but awkward pitch overcame the difficulties and we moved together until a final pitch, which proved to be on perfect snow, took us up through the cornice to top out at around 5.30pm.
We were relieved to be off the route before dark but we were still left with the prospect of a dark descent in a virtual white-out (undoubtedly we were getting full value for money!). The dubious navigational honours fell to myself and, as Amos took a deserved rest, I began to feel like less of a liability. We were now in familiar territory for me and I felt the hardest part of the day was behind us. We decided to take the shortest and quickest descent down the Red Burn and into Glen Nevis. I took the necessary bearings and we paced off across the summit plateau.
With the ground and the air being indistinguishable from each other, and only the occasional rock, protruding from the snow, confirming that we were actually walking on something solid, I felt quite vulnerable. Also, knowing only too well the dangers faced on a descent of Ben Nevis I was naturally concerned when it felt like I was turning to the right every time I checked the compass, possibly towards the jaws of No.3 or No.4 Gully, or close to the dangerous cornices. "Trust the compass," I kept telling myself. Amos was regularly enquiring about how things were and I sensed a certain amount of concern in his voice - I hoped he was just eager to get down quickly. I reassured him that everything was fine and, forcing myself to trust my pacing and the compass, we made steady progress downwards. As we descended out of the mist, I was sure that we were looking at the lights of Glen Nevis Youth Hostel directly ahead of us. Afterwards, I discovered Amos' concern had been about our direction of travel after all - he was convinced I was always turning left and possibly towards Five Finger Gully!
At one point I stumbled head first into a snow drift and Amos decided we should take a rest. He had obviously read my mind and promptly produced two Mars bars. I couldn't eat mine fast enough - it took, I'm sure, 15 minutes to get through the frozen caramel! With a new leash of life we made our way towards the river and the road. It was 8pm when we walked over the bridge by the youth hostel, 14 hrs after we had set out. I was completely knackered (from lack of food more than anything else!).
By now we were concerned that the others would be becoming a little anxious. We still had a long walk back to the golf course and it would be very late by the time we got back. Using a technique not mentioned in the guidebook, but seemingly rather popular, we "borrowed" a taxi but, returning to the empty car park, Amos pitifully explained that we had no money and asked if we could hire the taxi until we found the others, and our wallets! Sadly that was not possible but the driver took a very understanding view and told us not to worry about it. After an uneventful wait at the golf course we decided that the others were taking one of two options:
a) the Tom Bridgeland option - waiting patiently in the Nevisport bar or,
b) the Kat Jones option - getting very worried that the CUMC was going to make the 9oclock News - and if her mother found out she was in Scotland....!
To save ourselves the embarrassment of the latter we decided to contact the mountain rescue ourselves and confirm our safe return. As I explained the situation to the police woman over the phone there was a terrific amount of racket in the background. Kat had been having kittens after all and they had simultaneously arrived at the station just as we rang. Standing at the counter, Kat had overheard the conversation and our names being mentioned, and had obviously got very excited.